It's very time-consuming and I'm nearly an hour frying the aubergines then simmering them with vinegar and

It's very time-consuming and I'm nearly an hour frying the aubergines then simmering them with vinegar and spices."6.30-7pm: "Sarah arrives home, thank God, with wine and flowers She sets the table. While I'm cooking she'll make sure people aren't sitting round a very ugly empty dish full of olive stones."7.30pm: Chermoula goes into the oven Salads finished off Everything on course Time for a shower.8 pm: First guests arrive punctually Forty minutes later, would you believe, the other guests. Usual excuses, the baby-sitter late, couldn't find the way, etc. Brought a bottle of champagne, though.Nearly midnight: First guests are leaving. So, was it worth it then? Oh, yes, it's always worth it - when it's all over. The guests' verdict: a lovely evening, terrific meal.FRIED FISH STEAKS WITH CHERMOULA(Robert Carrier's version)Serves 4-6A whole fish is often marinated and fried in exactly the same way.

Wash it thoroughly as below, then score it diagonally on each side and rub well with the chermoula.About 212lb/1.25kg fish: 1 sea bream, or 2 sea bass or cod steakssaltflour, siftedoil for fryinglemon quartersFor the chermoula12 bunch fresh green coriander, finely chopped3 cloves garlic. peeled and crushed2 teaspoons coarse salt112 teaspoon each powdered cumin and paprika14 teaspoon hot red pepper12 teaspoon powdered saffron4-6 tablespoons olive oil2 tablespoons lemon juiceTo prepare the chermoula, combine all the ingredients.Scale, clean and wash the fish carefully in salted water, inside and out, then pat dry. Cut fish into steaks 112 ins/4cms thick and rub well with chermoula. Marinate fish in this mixture for at least 2 hours, or overnight.When ready to cook, pat fish dry with paper towels and dredge well with sifted flourHeat the oil in a large frying pan or shallow flameproof casserole large enough to hold fish comfortably Fry the fish in hot oil until golden brown.

Serve garnished with lemon quarters.FISH COUSCOUS WITH CHERMOULA(Natalia's variation)Serves 6-8 2-3lbs/1-1 5kg codFor the marinade8fl ozs/225ml olive oillemons, juice of 2 and zest of 12oranges, juice of 2 and zest of 12limes, juice of 3 and zest of 14in/10cm fresh ginger, peeled, sliced6 large cloves garlic1 teaspoon each of black pepper, salt, turmeric, paprika1 green chilli, chopped1 tablespoon capers, chopped6 large black olives, stoned, chopped12 preserved lemon (if available), sliced3 tablespoons each of chopped fresh coriander, parsley, mintFor the casserole stage1 large red onion, chopped2 sticks of celery chopped5 ripe tomatoes1 glass dry white wineFor the couscous112lbs/700g couscous112 pints/750 mls boiling water1 tablespoon olive oilpeel of preserved lemon (if available)bay leaf1 teaspoon each of turmeric and paprikasalt1 dozen almonds, freshly roasted (20 mins in low oven)fresh, roughly-chopped herbs to tasteFillet fish, and cut into pieces 112in by 1in (4cm by 3cm). Steep in the marinade ingredients for 30 minutes.Drain off the oil from the marinade into an oven-proof casserole, and fry the onion and celery in it gently, to soften. Add the tomatoes and half of marinade ingredients (but not the fish). Leave to cook through with the lid on in a medium oven (325 F/170 C/Gas 3) for 30 minutes. Fifteen minutes before serving, add fish and rest of marinade, lower the oven, and let it cook gently till done.Using a large bowl, pour boiling water on to couscous, stirring in all ingredients except the garnish Cover bowl with cling film.

After 10 minutes, when the grain has swollen, break up with a fork, cover again and keep warm, if necessary in a low oven.Toss with almonds and sprinkle with herbs. Stack a large serving plate with a mound of couscous and heap the fish chermoula on top.PRESERVED LEMONSScrub three or four lemons to get rid of the wax. Make a four-way slit in the top of each, in the shape of a cross Fill this with salt. Stuff into sterilised jars, cover with boiling water and put lid on tight When cool, keep in fridge Ready to eat at four weeks, though they keep forever !.

IT PROBABLY doesn't score highly on the parental one-upmanship scale to have your offspring's party at McDonald's or Pizzaland, but there's a certain advantage in having a family restaurant do the hard slog of keeping a posse of boisterous under-10s fed, watered and amused. The chains provide party packages that include paper hats, balloons, games and presents. While adults may sneer at the nutritional and aesthetic value of burgers, chicken nuggets, chips and milk shakes, there's no doubt that they suit less sophisticated palates The parties also work out extraordinarily cheap. So if lack of space, energy or money convinces you that it's worth a try next time a birthday looms, which restaurant should you choose? We gave some self-sacrificing volunteers the onerous task of testing the party services of six restaurant chains This is what they said. THE TEST Each family group gave each restaurants marks for the quality and choice of the food and drink, the party extras such as hats, presents and novelties, how child-friendly the staff were, value for money, and the standard of the party overall.THE PANELAlthough the numbers of adults attending varied, each party - comprising children aged from babyhood to eight - was organised by one adult. These were: Yvonne Luke with six children; Margaret St John and six children; John Walsh and six children; Nicola Richford and eight children; Carolyn Metcalfe and six children; and Nick Donaldson and 11 children.